The Most Important Step in the Print Workflow

Monitor Calibration

In preparation for producing the best image files possible for print, I take several important steps throughout my editing workflow. The most important step however, is working on a monitor calibrated for color and brightness. By calibrating my monitor I can ensure that my prints will come out exactly the way I envision them. Currently, I work on a BenQ SW270C monitor built specifically for editing photographs. One important note is that my monitor is calibrated differently based on whether the final image will be posted to the web or printed. When editing for web I set the brightness at 120 nits to accurately reflect what people will see on their phone or computer. But when editing for print I set the brightness at 80 nits to compensate for the fact that images look darker on paper than they do on a screen.

Other Important Steps That Make a Big Difference

Setting the Photoshop workspace to a light gray or white background ensures that any shadows in the image are not too dark, as editing on a black background changes the way the eye perceives shadows.

The final output size of the image file is the next important consideration to be made because that affects the output sharpening process.

Before I print my work, I first resize the image in Photoshop to the final output size, and then go through a multi-stage sharpening process. This is because different size prints will require different levels of sharpening. These are just a few of the important steps I take to produce a high-quality file for print.

Metal Prints Explained

What are Metal Prints?

Metal Prints are known by several names such as HD Metal Prints, Aluminum Prints, Brushed Aluminum Prints, DiBond Prints, Metallic Prints and Metal Photo Prints. Printing on metal is a sleek modern way to display your work without having to frame it. Metal Prints really bring an image to life to life. Due to their durability, archival quality, and convenience, they are quickly becoming the new standard for displaying and selling art. Metal prints are made via a process called sublimation, and here’s how it works.

Unlike the traditional method of printing directly on the surface, which may damage easily, dye sublimation infuses the image directly into the hard coating to provide lasting durability and protection.

The first step requires your image to be printed on paper transfer media on a giclee printer with specialized sublimation inks made for the metal print process. The print will look like a flat colored mirrored copy of the original image.

This sheet is then taped on to blank metal photo panel which is then placed in a heat press. The heat and pressure causes the sublimation inks to transform into a gas. The gas is then absorbed through the pores of the polymer coating of the metal and into the base coating. As the metal cools, the pores close and the metal surface stabilizes.

Additional Benefits

Other than the obvious image quality, metal prints offer additional benefits.

Metal prints offer great value. Since metal photo prints don’t need to be framed, you can save big on framing costs which are often much more than the price of the print itself. My metal prints come ready to hang at a fraction of the cost of a custom framed traditional photo print.

Durability and archivability of metal prints are excellent. The surface coating is very tough and scratch resistant. It doesn’t require any glass to cover it. Also, they are incredibly fade resistant. So, how long do metal prints last? The Rochester Institute of Technology tested metal prints to last up to 4 times longer than archival silver halide photographic prints which last about 40 years.

Since they are printed on aluminum, metal prints are also water proof. If you have finger prints or something gets on it, just use a damp cloth to wipe it.

My Favorite Photography Locations in Chicago

Although I love being able to travel and see new places, I still have a full time job and that means the majority of my photography takes places in Chicago. Today I’d like to talk about some of my favorite locations for photography when I’m home.

North Ave Beach

There are two classic views of the Chicago skyline, and one of them is North Ave Beach. From here you can see iconic buildings such as the Hancock Tower, Lakeshore Tower, and many others as well. I’ve visited this location more than any other spot in Chicago because I always find it so peaceful to be out there alone first thing in the morning when the sun rises and casts beautiful side light on the buildings. Whenever I am in a creative rut this is where I go.

The Adler Planetarium

The second iconic view of the Chicago skyline is seen from the Adler Planetarium. From here you can see the Sears Tower, the Chicago Board of Trade, and many other well known buildings. This is my favorite location to visit at sunset because I love watching the sun set behind the buildings right as the lights in the skyscrapers turn on. I especially love coming here in winter when the lake turns to ice and creates all sorts of interesting patterns.

18th Street Bridge

This used to be my go to location when I was living downtown because I lived 5 minutes away and parking was incredibly easy. Anytime I thought there would be a good sunset or sunrise I would rush over to try and catch it. On the left hand side there is an industrial train yard and I would use the train tracks as leading lines into the city, and on the right hand side there is a beautiful park with green grass and trees and I would use the walkway as a focal point in the foreground.

Lincoln Park Nature Boardwalk

The bridge over South pond near the Lincoln Park Zoo is another spot I love to visit to get a unique view of the skyline. I prefer this location at sunrise because the side light coming from the lake looks amazing. And after the light becomes too harsh to photograph the skyline, I’ll walk over to the Nature Pavilion to shoot abstracts.

Kinzie & Wells Parking Garage

This parking garage has become a must shoot location for Chicago photographers. The train track creates a great S-curve to lead the eye through the image. I like to come here after sunset when it’s dark and you can get light trails when the train passes by.

How to Create Amazing Images Using Long Exposures

Today I want to talk about how to use long exposures in your landscape photography. Long exposures are a great way to show movement in a scene, especially when clouds and water are involved. Once you try it, you’ll love using the technique. Here are a few tips to keep in mind that will help as you get started.

Use a shutter release cable

Because the camera shutter is open for so long, the camera is extra susceptible to movement. I use a shutter release to make sure that my camera doesn’t move. Plus, using a shutter release in bulb mode makes it easier to take take exposures longer than 30 seconds.

Use a neutral density filter

Depending on how bright it is how outside, you might need to use a neutral density filter to achieve your desired shutter speed. I have 3 different versions: a 3-stop, a 6-stop, and a 10-stop. The 3-stop filter is great for achieving shutter speeds between 1/4 second and 1 second, which can show movement in water. The 10 stop filter is great for 4 or 5 minute exposures that blur clouds.

Use Photopills or another app to determine your shutter speed

When taking an exposure longer than 30 seconds in bulb mode, the camera can’t calculate the shutter speed for a properly exposed image. In this situation, I use Photopills to determine my shutter speed, but there are other apps available as well. All you need to do is input the shutter speed for a properly exposed image without an ND filter, then enter your ND filter information, and Photopills tells you the correct exposure with the ND filter on.

Experiment with different shutter speeds

Don’t be afraid to experiment with different shutter speeds and ND filters. Sometimes a 1 or 2 second exposure looks best, sometimes a 1 or 2 minute exposure is the way to go. It all depends on the feeling you are trying to convey with your image. Typically, when I want to show movement in water I start with a shutter speed of 1/4 second. If I want to show movement in the clouds I start with a shutter speed of 2-3 minutes. But it all depends, so experiment and have fun!

Using a long exposure is one of my favorite techniques. Feel free to message me if you have any questions, and sign up for my list so you’ll know when my next article is released.